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Photograph:
Paul R. Johnson
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One-of-a-Kind
Bead
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Twisted and coiled in
spirals and loops and pyramids, the wire tells a story. In Lynne
Merchant's accomplished hands, heavy-gauge silver wire becomes
a bead, a cage for a bead, and a link between beads. Sometimes
it combines with copper or brass; sometimes it holds a precious
black pearl or a smooth river rock . Sometimes it is formed with
an old guitar string or a porcelain electrical insulator. In its
journey to its final form, the wire absorbs Lynne's energy to
become a bead that reflects the artist who made it, strong and
beautiful.
"All these different
movements I'm doing with wire are almost like an alphabet,"
the San Diego-area artist explains as she joins her wire beads
into a necklace she calls "the chain of events." Visually
stimulating, Lynne's necklaces tell bold and complex stories,
in keeping with one of her artistic philosophies: "Become
bold with it and make a statement. An artist can dare to tell
the truth, dare to be different."
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Calder
Coil Bead |
Blue
Moon Bead |
The
Coil Meets Calder Bead |
Lynne doesn't have a
line of jewelry, but rather a style that has an aged, ethnic look
inspired by craftsmen all over the world. Made of mixed metals
combined with beads and found objects, her jewelry is all one-of-a-kind.
"I've never made a bead like this one before and I'll never
make a bead like it again. I try new things all the time,"
she says, with a throaty bubbling laugh that comes often and easily.
"I'm making this up as I go." The spiral shape is repeated
in her work in many forms, wrapped around a bead, as a link between
beads, and in clasps. An ancient symbol, it has many meanings
in many cultures; Native Americans used it to represent emergence
(birth), the universe, and the journey of life, all fitting metaphors
for Lynne's compelling work.
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Spiral
Earrings of Sterling Silver Wire
Photograph: Paul R. Johnson
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A Journey of
Inspiration
Today the dynamic artist demonstrates her wire bending art to
12 students enrolled in her beadmaking class at Beads and Beyond
in Bellevue, WA, sharing her techniques as well as her philosophy
and inspirations. As Lynne talks, her students travel with her
to Africa, Afghanistan, Nepal, and France, grasping not only wire,
but the origins of an art form that has captivated sher for more
than 25 years.
Adorned with her own
hand-wrought silver earrings, bracelets, and necklaces, she still
exudes the gypsy spirit that took her on a seven-year worldwide
journey in the early seventies.
Educated at the California College of Arts and Crafts in Oakland,
Lynne taught art to young children in Victoria, BC, until her
brief marriage fell apart. She then moved to Taos, NM, to teach
at a Native American school and met Greg, whose wanderlust had
been piqued by the movie, "Endless Summer." The two
cleaned boats at Marina Del Rey in southern California and sold
their belongings before embarking on their trek to South Africa.
After six months their money ran out, and they began making things
to sell, learning skills from local artisans. Greg was the marketing
and business genius and had no fear of trying new things. "My
tools were my hands and my ingenuity," says Lynne.
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Blue Necklace by Lynne Merchant
Photograph: Paul R. Johnson |
Her hair is wilder now,
curls pinned back with silver barrettes; but at an unbelievable
51, her intense blue eyes and engaging smile are the same as in
the pictures she shows from her travels: making leather sandals
in South Africa, traveling the African continent in a Volkswagen
Combi, learning wire bending from Afghan men, searching for coral
in Yemen, and selling her handmade jewelry at French craft fairs.
Calder Coil
Bead
As she traveled, Lynne did what she had always done - collect
interesting pieces. A dyslexic child who didn't know why she had
difficulty with reading and writing, Lynne learned she could feel
good about herself if she created with her hands. So shells and
beach rocks and wood became sculptures and mobiles. Her grandfather,
a violin maker, taught her how to use and respect tools. In the
Middle East, Lynne loved to go through the junk drawers of shop
owners to find old broken pieces of jewelry and equipment she
might be able to fix or incorporate into her own work. And everywhere
she went, she asked artisans about their work. "People are
very interested
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Coissant
Bead |
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in showing their craft,"
Lynne says. "I would sit knee to knee with these old men
and watch what they made. We saw all these primitive people making
things from their souls." She stops to reflect. "I try
to keep myself primitive that way. I keep myself free for the
magic."
Eight
years ago she began teaching her art at The Shepherdess in San
Diego's Old Town. Last year, Lynne added classes in Washington
state and taught at the Third International Bead Conference in
Washington, DC, where she discovered how unique her work is among
beadmakers, who were awed by it.
The Flame of
Attention
Unlike many people who work with silver, Lynne shuns a torch or
solder.
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Guitar
String
Kuchi Coil Bead
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As
a result, many of her pins and beads are made from a single piece
of wire. And she compensates - if she doesn't trust a heavy bead
to hang from one jump ring, she hangs it from two or three. Silver
anneals (strengthens and hardens) as it is worked and hammered.
"Heating metal weakens it, and I am always building the metal
up, not breaking it down," she explains. Besides, her hair
went up in flames when she was using a torch years ago. But most
important is that her work be absolutely portable so that she
can take it to the beach, on a plane, to the home of a friend,
or on a French canal barge. "I'm a traveler, so my jewelry
studio is in a small cloth bag," says Lynne. And she carries
the flame of attention with her wherever she goes.
That flame of attention
is on her work today as she demonstrates a "Calder Coil,"
named after one of her idols, Connecticut artist Alexander Calder
(1988-1976). Calder knew how to coax art out of wire, twisting
and turning it into a remarkable circus,
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Jig
Bead
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mobiles,
and sculptures. Lynne admires the work and the spirit of the man
she calls the "patron saint of wire bending. I'm trying to
have as much fun with wire as he did," she says. The "Calder
Coil" is an airy bead that lends itself to putting beads
inside. "I could make one each day and every one would be
different." Lynne's "Kuchi Coil" (named after the
people in Afghanistan who taught her the basic shape) can be made
with a mandrel wire of silver wrapped tightly with almost any
kind of wire, from gold to copper to a guitar string, as here.
(A mandrel is a form around which something is wound.) Afreeform
bead gets its name from the webs spiders weave when they're on
stimulants, "Spider on LSD." The "Blue Moon Bead"
takes so much wire (over eight feet) and coiling that you'd probably
want to do it as often as a blue moon. The "Croissant Bead"
is made with rolled copper sheeting in much the same way as its
bakery progenitor. As she makes each bead, her focus is completely
on her work. "Sometimes I call my classes Zen and the art
of wire bending," Lynne muses. 'You must be present. You
can't look at or think about something else."
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Spider
on LSD Bead |
Like
the Nepalese artists who rub yak butter on their jewelry to make
it look old, Lynne also likes to "rub the age" into
her jewelry (with liver of sulfur, steel wool, and a polishing
cloth) so that when her students walk out of her classroom wearing
their own jewelry, "it looks like its always been there."
Lynne's frenetic schedule
has her teaching two to three months then taking time off for
her own work, which she sells at The Cedros Trading Co. in Solano
Beach, CA. It's a pace that leaves little free time, but does
allow her the summer months for travel.
Tension and
Intention
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Triangle
Bead
Calder Coil Inside
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After
25 years of working with wire, Lynne still exclaims, "Wire
is so far out." She describes each metal and each gauge of
metal as having its own I personality: If gold is king, silver
is queen, with a character much more forgiving and pleasant. Copper
is the court jester, and brass is the duchess. "The wire
has no innate intelligence," Lynne tells the students gathered
around her. 'You take it over and tell it what to do."
She encourages students
to work with heavy gauges, such as 16 or 14. "If you make
it large, you can always scale it down. If you only make it small,
you don't think to go large," she says. "This is real
powerful," she tells her students. "This is not cute.
This is strong stuff." It looks effortless when Lynne does
it, but students trying their hand at bending 16-gauge wire quickly
learn why Lynne talks constantly of intention along with tension.
"Sometimes when things are coming from your soul, they look
facile; they look easy," Lynne explains. But along with the
intensity comes fun. There is lots of talk and laughter amid the
concentration. "I'm dead serious about my fun," she
smiles. "I just play with it."
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Saturn
Bead |
With
both her work and her life, Lynne likes to zoom in close and focus
on detail then stand back to see the object in perspective. This
is how she usually makes her necklaces as well, assembling a whole
from parts she's completed at different times. That's also how
she encourages her students to look at art. "Stand in front
of something and drink it up, absorb its essence, so you can take
it with you always."
"There is a vibration and feeling about things made by hand,"
Lynne says. "Things made with hands have a spirit about them,
a love that no machine can copy If I touch it more, rub it more,
put a little more of myself into it, it becomes powerful. I put
that flame of attention into every single thing that I do."
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